Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Framing Design )
I pre-cut all of the wood based on the design in the last installment, a gutsy move but everything fit. We made the back wall first, in two parts. The longest part was 15′ 10″ long and 11′ 4″ tall. It was so heavy we had to move it in little steps. We put up three walls, then the roof rafters and then I finished the final wall.
I couldn’t have done it without my Dad’s help. Thanks Pops.
This photo is courtesy of my backyard neighbor Phil who also helped us, thanks Phil.
The front wall is on the ground and you can see part of the back wall laying on top of the floor in the background.
Three Walls Up, No Roof
Putting Up the Rafters
The Final Wall
All Finished With the Framing
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Floor )
Yes, this is my design, from start to finish, so I’ll only have one person to blame when it all comes crashing down ( my wife for letting me do this ).
Side Wall With Doors
Side Wall No Doors
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Stem Wall )
I-Joists on 16″ centers, maybe overkill but no one ever died from over engineering. I added the insulation before fastening the lid so I wouldn’t have to do it in crawl space. I used the standard 3/4 OSB for the lid, that stuff is heavy.
The Sill Plate
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Crane )
It took a total of 300 concrete blocks and 140 bags of concrete to build the stem wall. My initial idea was to do a “dry stack”, i.e. stack the block without mortar. As we started to place the blocks it became apparent that I calculated something incorrectly. It turns out that a 16″ x 8″x 8″ block is really 15¾” x 7¾” x 7¾”. The difference is a ¼” for mortar.
We ended up placing the first row of block using mortar and then the rest we did dry. It ended up helping level the blocks better anyway. After the block cells were filled with concrete we patched the remaining gaps with mortar and painted the inside with a sealant to keep water and mud from getting in. In hindsight it probably would have been easier to put up forms and pour concrete rather than use the blocks.
Getting Ready to Lay the Blocks
The Blocks Placed and Rebar Laid
Blocks Filled with Concrete and Dirt Backfilled
Window Well Added for Entry to Crawl Space
View From the Back Corner
Before and After
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Getting the Concrete )
I estimated ~60 bags of 80 lb concrete and we bought 70 bag to make sure we had enough. It turned out we needed close to 120 bags probably due to over digging of the footer trench. We ended up doing half of the footer one weekend and the other half the next weekend. To get the concrete to the site we rented a truck from Home Depot and drove it in to the backyard.
Pouring the Footer
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Footer )
Another three trips to Home Depot, getting one pallet of concrete, 42 bags of concrete, each trip. Three hours and 100 bags later the concrete pad that the pool sits on is finished.
Pouring the Concrete Pad
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Foundation Rebar )
We couldn’t get a concrete truck into the backyard, I didn’t know exactly how much concrete I needed ( since we used a trench footer ), and because a pump large enough to get over the trees in the front yard would be very expensive, we decided to make the concrete ourselves.
Backing the Truck In
The Stack of Concrete
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Removing the Dirt )
We used a trench style footer, two rows of 1/2 inch rebar on rebar chairs. The chars were spaced 16 inches apart and 48 inch vertical rebar sections were tied to each chair.
Continuing from Building a Pool House ( Excavation Take 2 )
At least 12 dumpsters from Rolloff Remedies, six weekends, and a Bobcat 763 rented from Chatfield Time Rentals; plus a big bill $$$.
Removing the Dirt